Spring has been miserable in Devon, but it has been worse in the French Vendée. My farm there is normally frantic in late May, as we cut, box, cool, and dispatch lettuces, chard, cabbages, turnips, and beans, while planting peppers and weeding sweetcorn. But when I visited last week, all was calm – not in a good way. My weekly calls with the team had failed to convey to me the calamity of…
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