Few foods are as hard-won as the marsh samphire that my son and his friends are foraging from the mud flats of the Erme estuary. This marsh was reclaimed from the sea using a sea wall, reputedly built by Napoleonic prisoners of war. It became prized grazing land – until the wall was breached in a storm 40 years ago. The fields were flooded, killing the grass, hedges, and oaks…
↧